Just like my last Hidden Beauty, today’s activity had an industrial theme. But while my Kitakyushu visits focused on hi-tech areas, here in Shunan, it’s all about heavy industry.
The chimneys of various factories dominate the Shunan skyline
Shunan is a port on the Seto Inland Sea. “Inland” because it lies between Honshu, Kyushu, and Shikoku, this sea is famous for the many small islands which dot its waters, and is a popular destination for visitors because of its picturesque landscapes.
A picture-postcard view about half an hour’s drive along the coast from Shunan
However, the Seto Inland Sea is also an important commercial waterway with many large ships passing through it, and Shunan’s industry is firmly rooted in this maritime tradition.
The coast of Shunan from across the bay
So what better way to learn about it than by boat? I went on an evening cruise of the bay to find out more.
Our guide points out the main landmarks before we set off - it’s easy to get disoriented once you’re out on the water
“Cruise” makes me think of huge ocean liners like the QE2, but our boat was much more practical for getting up close to the shore
The bay is an excellent natural deepwater harbour, encircled almost entirely by promontories and islands.
This gap is the only channel in and out of the harbour
It was a key naval base in World War 2: the battleship Yamato was berthed here before its last voyage, and the training camp for human torpedoes was on one of the surrounding islands. Less romantic, but just as important, was a fuel refinery run by the navy. Today, there are several oil refineries along the coast, as well as various factories and a power station.
The geometric structures of the factories are strangely beautiful at night
From out in the middle of the bay, the factory lights appear fantastic, like enormous Christmas illuminations. Our guide tried to show us the shapes of various animals in them, but I’m convinced that they’re like clouds: each person will see something different. Closer to the shore, however, you can see that some very concrete industrial activity is taking place. Even though I visited on a Sunday evening, there was a lot going on!
The conveyor belts are loading cement directly from the factory in the previous photo onto this waiting container ship
Huge scoops hanging from these cranes grab 10 tons of coal at a time. They move surprisingly fast!
The guide told us that we were on a “hunting cruise”, partly because of those animal shapes but also because, just like on a safari, you can never be sure in advance exactly what you’ll see. As well as watching the coal-scooping cranes in action, we were lucky to see a bright purple flare above a steel foundry, which appears when excess heat is released from the blast furnace.
Even dirty windows look pretty at night!
The factory’s huge covered berth enables loading in all weathers
All too soon, we were heading back to the Seahorse Marina across a rather choppy bay. I certainly got a very different perspective on Shunan and on the Seto Inland Sea, as well as on all the work it takes to bring us the goods that we use every day.
Safely back in harbour
Early tomorrow morning, I’m heading for the Oki Islands in the Sea of Japan - another sea and another coast to look forward to!
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