Discovering more of Fukui
Fukui is a destination that is off the typical tourist trail in Japan. Located along the alternative route connecting Tokyo and Kyoto or Osaka along the Sea of Japan, Fukui offers historical and scenic sights without the crowds that stick to those major cities. What is more, access to Fukui from Tokyo has improved tremendously since the extension of the Hokuriku Shinkansen Line in March 2024. The extension of the bullet train line has opened up plenty of sightseeing possibilities in areas that were difficult to access before.
On my previous visit to Fukui, I explored the prefectural city, a world-famous dinosaur museum and a historic archeological site. This time, I visited towering sea cliffs, strolled more around Fukui City and visited an atmospheric shrine. These two trips have shown me that Fukui is a place worth visiting again and again as there are plenty of hidden gems in the area. Detailed transport information can be found in the access section below.
Day 1: Towering sea cliffs and central Fukui
From Tokyo, I took the bullet train and bus to Tojinbo, my first stop. Known for its precipitous sea cliffs - columnar joints that have been shaped over the millennia by wave action and erosion - that stretch for about two kilometers along the Sea of Japan, Tojinbo is a breathtaking sight for all.
One of the first things I noticed upon arriving at the coast line was the unobstructed view of the cliffs and the sea, specifically, the lack of guardrails at the edge of the cliffs. Legend has it that the area was named after the monk Tojinbo, who was murdered by being pushed off the cliffs when he was intoxicated. It would be wise to tread with care when near the edge to prevent any accidental falls.
The tallest cliffs at Tojinbo measure about 25 meters from sea level, and it can be a rush looking down from the edge. I spent some time walking carefully on the cliffs, going down close to water line and generally suppressing the urge to shout "I'm the Queen of the world!" into the wind. It should be noted that the Sea of Japan is known for being rough and stormy during the colder months, and additional care should be taken walking on the cliffs when it is windy.
From Tojinbo, I continued on my journey to Fukui City, the capital of Fukui Prefecture. The last time I was here, I had one of the best dinners of my life - a feast which included in-season crab and all other tasty dishes. I was looking forward to all the tasty dishes I could have this time.
Back in the city center, I went straight to my accommodation for the night, the Courtyard Fukui, which is directly opposite from the station, to drop off my bag. The hotel opened on the same day as the extension of the bullet train line, and it is the tallest building in the city. Thanks to its location and height, great views of the train lines, city and its surrounding mountains can be had from the rooms, lounge and restaurants.
After refreshing up, I headed back out in search for dinner. But, I did not have to go far. On the ground floor of my hotel is Minie, a new dining and shopping space that also opened on the day as the hotel and shinkansen extension. Having been to Fukui before, I thought that this new space was excellent for visitors and locals alike who prefer to be in close proximity to the train station.
Approximately 15 restaurants have taken up residence in Minie providing a variety of local food and drink. After looking at what was available at Minie, I narrowed down my selection and create a little restaurant hopping experience for myself. Visitors can also just dine at one place, but I was feeling indecisive and particularly greedy, thus going for a small selection.
I started at Our Brewing, the onsite microbrewery that makes award winning craft beer, and rewarded myself with their award winning beer first. Then I moved on to Amida Soba for Echizen soba, the local soba noodles that is served cold with grated radish and all the other ingredients in the bowl. It was a good one-bowl meal, and I learnt that this was a style typical for busy farmers who wanted an easy and quick meal while working in the fields. My last stop in Minie was at Kaketuke, a restaurant with sake and beer pairing sets as well as a variety of sharing dishes.
It was the perfect leisurely dinner for me, and I particularly enjoyed trying a variety of foods local to Fukui. The location and proximity to my hotel was also another plus for me, allowing me to roll back to my room without hassle.
Day 2: Morning stroll and serene shrine
Every city has its local, popular cherry blossom spots, and the banks of the Asuwa River in central Fukui is one of the city's best. With approximately 600 cherry trees planted along a length of about 2.2 kilometers, the riverside is ranked as one of the top 100 cherry blossom viewing spots in Japan.
It was an approximately 15 minute walk from my hotel to the riverside, and even though it was not the season for viewing cherry blossoms, walking along the banks of the Asuwa River proved to be enjoyable regardless. I saw residents using the paths for commuting, exercising and walking their pets. I felt like a local doing their morning routine.
My walking route took me up a flight of steps known as Atagozaka that was originally built for going up Mount Asuwa. Halfway up the mountain is Asuwa Shrine, best known for its centuries year old weeping cherry tree. Not far from the shrine is an observation deck with a nice view of the city as well.
On my way back, I passed a local sweets shop, Amatoya, and could not resist entering. I found a nice selection of sweet treats, and luckily for me, mizuyokan, which is a local Fukui specialty that is available only in the colder months. The chatty owner of Amatoya was incredibly friendly, and even suggested other sightseeing spots nearby. This heartwarming exchange made me feel like a local Fukui resident just doing my morning routine and catching up with other local friends.
Following that lovely morning stroll, I took a train and taxi to Heisenji Hakusan Shrine, an atmospheric shrine about an hour from central Fukui. In the early 8th century, a monk who was on his way to Mount Hakusan, one of the three sacred mountains in Japan, stopped in the area to pray, and the goddess of the mountain appeared to him there. Upon his return from Mount Hakusan, that monk established Heisenji Temple at the same location. Heisenji Temple remained as a temple until the late 19th century, when the temple switched to be a shrine.
At its peak, Heisenji Temple contained over 80 buildings and housed thousands of monks, and was a central place for worshipers on their way up the sacred Mount Hakusan from Fukui. But, the calm and peaceful scenery at the shrine now contradicts that past. A flight of stone steps lead up to the moss-covered main shrine area, where vestiges of the past remain to be seen. Almost all the buildings and structures at Heisenji Hakusan Shrine date back to the 17th and 18th centuries as the entire complex was destroyed in 16th century.
I spent a few hours walking around Heisenji Hakusan Shrine, and appreciated the quietness of the area with the few tourists. It is hard to believe that just less than ten kilometers away from one of the world's greatest dinosaur museum and a popular Fukui sightseeing attraction is this quiet shrine with a long history and comparatively fewer tourists.
After two trips to Fukui, I have come to the conclusion that the city and its surroundings have many more hidden gems to uncover, and I know that I will be well fed and rested there. The fact that Fukui is not as well-known among international tourists means that the place is not overcrowded and visitors can take their time sightseeing without feeling rushed or stressed. I am looking forward to many more trips to Fukui in different seasons to experience everything I can in this lovely city.
Access
Awara Onsen and Fukui stations on the Hokuriku Shinkansen Line are the main points of access for the places visited in this article.
Tokyo to Tojinbo
Take the Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo and get off at Awara Onsen Station (about 3 hours, around 16,000 yen one way for a reserved seat). Then, transfer to a bus bound for Ryusho Museum and get off at Tojinbo (45 minutes, 790 yen one way). The cliffs are less than ten minutes on foot from the bus stop.
Tojinbo to Fukui City
From Tojinbo, take the bus bound for Ryusho Museum and get off at Mikuni Station (10 minutes, 360 yen one way). Then transfer to the Echizen Railway and take a train bound for Fukui Station (50 minutes, 780 yen one way).
The Courtyard Fukui is directly across from Fukui Station, and the spots visited in central Fukui are within walking distance of both the hotel and the station.
Fukui City to Heisenji Hakusan Shrine
Take the Echizen Railway train bound for Katsuyama from Fukui Station to its terminal stop (55 minutes, 820 yen one way), then take a taxi (about 20 minutes and 2800 yen one way) to Heisenji Hakusan Shrine.