Luxury getaway to Iseshima by train
The Shima Peninsula or Iseshima as it is commonly referred to in Japanese, is a quiet region facing the Pacific Ocean that is home to rugged and stunning coastlines, tranquil nature, luxury hotel resorts and Ise Jingu, Japan's most sacred Shinto shrines. Traveling to Iseshima is straightforward as it is easily accessible by Kintetsu Railway from the nearby major cities of Osaka, Kyoto and Nagoya.
The 5-day Kintetsu Rail Pass is an economical and convenient digital rail pass that allows for unlimited travel on the Kintetsu Railway network and the Iga Railway. The pass includes various discounts at sightseeing spots and facilities, and can be used only by international tourists. Note that a supplement is required to take limited express trains on the network.
For this article, I took the Shimakaze, a sightseeing limited express train operated by Kintetsu Railway that has daily departures from Osaka, Kyoto and Nagoya six days a week. The luxurious sightseeing train makes it way to the peninsula at a leisurely pace for passengers to enjoy the scenery along the way.
A limited express ticket is required to board the Shimakaze as all seats are reserved. Tickets have to be purchased in advance, and note that seats may sell out due to the popularity of the service.
The plan for this trip was to take the Shimakaze to Iseshima, then spend the day participating in activities in and around my hotel by the coast. Then travel inland to visit Ise Jingu before heading home.
Day 1: Shima Peninsula
I got off the train at Kashikojima, the terminal stop on Iseshima, to find my hotel shuttle already waiting for me. A short two minute drive brought me to my hotel for this trip, the prestigious Shima Kanko Hotel, a luxury resort in Iseshima with two properties boasting different styles. The hotel was first built in 1951 by acclaimed architect Murano Togo, who is known for incorporating the traditional Japanese style into modern architecture. Part of this original building still stands on the grounds of the Shima Kanko Hotel, and is used as a hotel museum with exhibits about the hotel's history and distinguished guests as well as some historical relics and pictures.
The Classic and The Baysuites are the two hotel properties that make up Shima Kanko Hotel. The Classic was built in 1969 and features a classic Japanese style design that extends to the rooms interiors, while the contemporary and modern The Baysuites was constructed in 2008 and features only suite rooms with excellent views. One of the biggest events that was hosted at Shima Kanko Hotel was the G7 Iseshima Summit in 2016, and the delegates stayed at The Baysuites, as I was on this trip. Imagine my awe, when I realized that I was assigned the room that Angela Merkel, the German delegate, stayed at during her visit.
When staying at a luxury resort, it is normal and common to spend most of your time in the hotel premises enjoying all the facilities, and that is the same for me. I spent the rest of my time fully enjoying the services offered by the hotel.
The first activity on my list is a wood carving activity. Ise Ittobori is a traditional craft of Mie Prefecture, and the wood carving technique is said to have started centuries ago when shrine carpenters used leftover wood from building the sacred Ise Shrines to carve out small auspicious charms.
My instructor for the activity was Ota Yui, one of only four Ise Ittobori artisans in the world. Her gentle demeanor immediately puts me at ease as she guided me through the process of shaping a piece of wood into a work of art. The goal for the activity was to create a small Daruma doll, a round figure representing the Zen monk Bodhidharma that is also a symbol of good luck.
After painting the finishing touches on my carved piece, my work of art was completed. Even though it did not look as professional as Yui-sensei's pieces, I was pleased with my first hand-carved Daruma doll. The whole activity took about an hour, which passed in a flash. I had some time to chat with Yui-sensei after the activity, and learned that she also carves accessories, charms and keychains in addition to the auspicious decorative items.
With the sun still out after the activity, I headed down to the hotel's dock for a cruise of the area. Kashikojima is located at the northern end of Ago Bay, a calm bay with many islands and known for its pearl farming. In fact, it was here in Ago Bay that Mikimoto Koichi, the founder of the internationally renowned Mikimoto pearls, and others pioneered pearl cultivation. Japan's pearl industry has its humble beginnings in Ago Bay, and pearl farming is still carried out in the waters here.
Available to hotel guests for an additional fee, the 45 minute Ago Bay Cruise takes guests through the calm waters passing numerous pearl farming rafts and small islands in the bay. It was such a treat to see part of the bay up close, and I enjoyed feeling the sea breeze against my skin. While I joined a scheduled cruise, meaning that it was open to all hotel guests; reservations are accepted up to 15 minutes before departure time, charter cruises are also available for those who want privacy or planning for a special occasion.
It was almost sundown by the time I returned to land, and I headed to the roof top garden of The Baysuites to see the sun set. It was a glorious sight seeing the sun go down beyond the islands in the bay. Combined with the peaceful surroundings, I felt that life could not be more perfect for that moment in time.
As if taking a luxury sightseeing train and spending a leisurely time at a luxury hotel was not enough, dinner was the icing on the cake. I had dinner at La Mer, a French restaurant overlooking Ago Bay at The Baysuites, headed by Chef Higuchi Hiroe, a Mie Prefecture native who was in charge of planning the working dinner for the G7 delegates.
The Shima Peninsula was once one of three regions in Japan that provided the imperial court with food, especially seafood, and La Mer prides itself in serving diners the bounty of the sea. The calm waters of Ago Bay are where two regional delicacies, Ise lobster and abalone, are found, and they made an appearance in my dinner alongside seasonal vegetables from local farmers. The lovely and tasty multi-course meal was perfectly complemented with attentive and friendly staff, whom I thought added that personal touch to the meal.
I returned to my massive suite room satisfied and content, wishing that everyday could be as perfect as this day in Iseshima.
Day 2: Ise Jingu
I started the next day with a beautiful Japanese breakfast at Hamayu, the Japanese restaurant at The Baysuites. Then got myself physically and mentally ready to leave the beautiful and comfortable luxury resort. It was a pleasure to have the opportunity to experience this peaceful retreat surrounded by nature, eating delicious food and taking in the views.
To get to my destination for the day, I boarded the Pearl Shuttle, a direct bus that connects hotels in Iseshima that are operated by Kintetsu Group with Ise Shrine.
Ise Jingu consists of 125 shrines with two main shrines that are also the most sacred shrines in Japan: Naiku, the inner shrine, and Geku, the outer shrine. The inner shrine is dedicated to Amaterasu Omikami, the sun goddess, while the outer shrine is dedicated to Toyouke no Omikami, the deity of food, housing and clothing. The two main shrines are about four kilometers (about one hour to walk or 10-15 minutes by bus) apart from one another.
From The Baysuites, it took about 70 minutes to get to Naiku, the last stop. While the bus terminates at the entrance of Naiku, the traditional approach to the shrine goes through Oharaimachi, a district known for its traditional atmosphere, and where I decided to head first.
In the past, weary travelers walking to Naiku could stop in Oharaimachi for rest, food and gathering information. One of the foods that travelers ate on the way to the sacred shrine is Ise Udon, a local specialty in which soft noodles are served with a splash of dark sauce. The noodles were deliberately made soft so that bowls of noodles could be served up at a moments notice, and travelers could eat it quickly and be on their way to the Ise Shrines. There are a number of restaurants in the district serving up this local specialty, and I followed in the footsteps of travelers past and present to have a bowl of Ise Udon.
Oharaimachi contains many shops and restaurants selling local specialties and snacks, and it is easy to spend a couple of hours strolling through the district sampling the various foods on offer and buying souvenirs. I passed Hakutaka, a sake brewery and the only one with the privilege to supply sake that is offered to the gods of Ise Shrine in their two daily meals. The brewery contains a shop space on one side and a standing bar on the other, where visitors can drink the same sake that is presented to the gods.
It was not long before I returned to the entrance of Naiku, which is marked by a large wooden torii gate and bridge. The approximately 100 meter long Uji Bridge allows visitors to cross from the physical world into the spiritual realm. As the bridge that is built over the Isuzu River, crossing it is also a symbolic way of cleansing our hearts and minds before entering the hallowed shrine grounds. Once on the shrine grounds, the noises of the bustling Oharaimachi faded away, and I felt an air of sanctity and solemnity as visitors went about their ways quietly and respectfully.
Naiku is believed to have been founded over 2000 years ago, but despite its long history, the shrine buildings look relatively new. This is due to a centuries old tradition of rebuilding the shrines every 20 years on adjacent sites. The most recent rebuilding was completed in 2013, and the next, the 63rd rebuilding, is scheduled for 2033. Thanks to this practice, the traditional Japanese architectural style known as Shinmei-zukuri that shows no influence from the mainland of Asia can be seen at Ise Jingu.
Visiting Naiku typically takes about 1 to 1.5 hours, and for many, the main purpose is to pay their respects at the main hall, where Amaterasu Omikami is enshrined. Likewise, it was the same for me, and there could not be a more fitting place to close my perfect trip to Iseshima. I gave thanks for the wonderful retreat in Iseshima, where I could relax and be rejuvenated in a peaceful setting.
How to get to and around Iseshima
Iseshima is best accessed by Kintetsu Railway, which is the only railway company whose network goes all the way to Kashikojima Station at the southern end of the peninsula. The sightseeing limited express Shimakaze has daily departures from Osaka, Kyoto and Nagoya to Kashikojima Station, and the one way journey takes a leisurely two hours.
The 5-day Kintetsu Rail Pass is an economical and convenient digital rail pass that allows for unlimited travel on the Kintetsu Railway network and the Iga Railway. The rail pass costs 4900 yen and includes various discounts at sightseeing spots and facilities. It can be used only by international tourists. Note that a supplement is required to take limited express trains on the network.
From Kashikojima Station to Shima Kanko Hotel
A free shuttle service between the station and the hotel is available to hotel guests. The one way drive takes less than 5 minutes. Alternatively, it is an approximately ten minute walk from the station to the hotel.
From Shima Kanko Hotel to Naiku
The Pearl Shuttle is a direct bus that connects Shima Kanko Hotel and other Kintetsu-operated hotels in Iseshima with Naiku. The one way journey takes about 70 minutes and costs 1000 yen. There are two departures in the morning from the hotels around Kashikojima and two departures in the afternoon from Ise Shrine. Reservations are recommended, but it is also possible to board the bus without reservations as long as seats are available.
Links
- Sightseeing Limited Express Shimakaze - Official website.
- 5 day Kintetsu Rail Pass - Official website.
- Shima Kanko Hotel - Official website.
- Shima Kanko Hotel The Baysuites - Official website.