Far from the Madding Kyoto Crowds - Part 1

Travel Reports by Chashitsu

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April 20, 2016 - Far from the Madding Kyoto Crowds - Part 1

Having visited Kyoto on a number of occasions and seen many of the main temples and gardens I decided to devote a couple of days visiting less popular, less reported sights. The standard tours of Kyoto cover Kinkaku-ji, Ginkaku-ji and Nijo castle and we have seen many images of these in past volumes of Shakkei. Upon arrival in Kyoto, somewhat later than planned due to fuel pump issues in Schipol I went to Sennyu-ji temple, a lesser known temple about 1km from Tofuku-ji temple in the hills of south east Kyoto.

Chris Rowthorn of Lonely Planet fame had recommended this temple and it proved worthy of his recommendation with a few stunning buildings, including a magnificent Chinese gate, in a beautiful hillside setting at the foot of Mt. Higashiyama with a fabulous garden. Built in Heian times and patronised by successive emperors, many mausoleums were built in the grounds and became the family temple of the Imperial household. The grounds contain the remains of ten emperors and a notable chrysanthemum basin. A mere handful of visitors were at the temple and not many more at the next stop Chishaku-in.

Reimei-den garden, Sennyu-ji temple, Kyoto

Path to the tea house, Sennyu-ji temple, Kyoto

Beautiful screens, Sennyu-ji temple, Kyoto

Whilst I had visited Chishaku-in several times before, I wanted to explore the grounds and photograph the fabulous wall paintings. Upon arrival some priests had just bid goodbye to a guest and I asked to take a photo and one insisted that I was included. The temple has an excellent Tsukiyama garden although at this time, the azaleas were not yet in bloom.

Panorama wall paintings, Chishaku-in, Kyoto

Panorama of Tsukiyama garden, Chishaku-in, Kyoto

Around the corner is Yogen-in, known for it�fs blood stained ceiling. Following the fall of Fushimi castle the remaining garrison of100 or so samurai committed seppuku; the floor boards were re-used in a number of temples around Kyoto and Yogen-in is one such temple. Others include Hosen-in in Ohara and Shoden-ji, both of which I have visited, fortunately unaware of their grisly past. The main hall was decorated with images of wild animals including elephant heads

Carving on main hall, Yogen-in temple, Kyoto

I visited Sanjusangendo in 2002, as my current research suggested that there was a garden I could not recall it. It turned out to be a rather nice pond garden with usual islands and a few cherry trees still in bloom. Sanjusangendo is known for it�fs huge hall of the Lotus King of 33 bays housing 1001 images of the deity Kannon and other interesting buildings. A somewhat busier destination.

Hall of the Lotus Kng, Sanjusangen-do temple, Kyoto

Shrine with late blossom, Sanjusangen-do temple, Kyoto

Pond garden, Sanjusangen-do temple, Kyoto

Later in the week, having transferred to another ryokan in the north of Kyoto, I took the bus to Haradani-en cherry garden, somewhat out of town in the hills behind Kinkaku-ji temple. This garden is only open during April for the sakura although it has many other spring blooming shrubs and trees. It used to be a market garden but subsequently converted to a cherry garden and occupies just over one hectare. Many of the cherries were still in bloom (mid April), due to the elevation although the weeping cherries are past their best.

From Haradani I walked the mile or so to Ninna-ji temple to see if the later flowering cherry blossom there was still to be seen but was sadly disappointed. A few of the green Ukon cherries and other pink varieties were to be seen in various parts of the temple grounds. Ninna-ji is known for it�fs wonderful temple buildings and pond garden overlooked by a five storey pagoda.

Late flowering Ukon cherry, Ninna-ji temple, Kyoto

A pleasant walk through Myoshin-ji temple grounds towards Hanazono station leads to Honkongo-in temple. Another temple with a long history dating back to the 9th century and was so loved by various emperors it was bestowed the rank of lower fifth court from which the temple takes it�fs name Goizan (fifth rank mountain). It has rather a lovely garden dating from Heian times fed by an impressive waterfall. It is particularly beautiful at cherry blossom time and autumn and is also noted for it�fs lotus flowers.

Stroll garden with pond, Hokongo-in, Kyoto

I discovered that Toji-in temple a little further north. Another less publicised and visited gem, perhaps because of it�fs proximity to a noisy university. Not only were the temple buildings stunning but the garden to the north was superb. The temple was founded by the Ashikaga shogun Takauji who is buried in the precincts. It served as a family temple throughout the reign of the Ashikagas. The garden by the temple buildings to the east is a shinji-ike style pond with island and Tsukiyama behind with the rustic Seirentei tea house (Clear Ripple hut) on the summit. The garden is thought to have been designed by Muso Soseki and is at it�fs best best in mid summer when the �gLizard�fs tails�h come into bloom. The western garden is based on a lotus flower design. There are two dry landscape gardens either side of the main hall.

Eat garden with Seirentei hut, Toji-in Temple

Not far away is the Hirano Jinya shrine, known for it�fs cherry blossom, although by this time in the month most of the stalls had been disappeared along with the blossom. Apart from the cherries there is a small shrine garden but not worthy of note.

I quickly ventured on to it�fs neighbouring shrine Kitano Tenmangu Jinya. This covers an extensive area as befitting an important shrine. It is dedicated to the scholar Sugawara Michizane who was unfairly exiled by his peers and a number of subsequent disasters were attributable to his vengeful spirit. A number of shrines were built to appease his spirit. The shrine is known for it�fs plum blossom in late winter and it�fs almost life size stone cows.