Walk the old Tokaido from kanbara to Okitsu
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January 20, 2014 - Walk the old Tokaido from kanbara to Okitsu
I finished walking at Yoshihara in my former report "Walk the old Tokaido (東海道) from Mishima to Yoshihara", and now continue to walk west from Kanbara (蒲原) in this report.
Precisely speaking, I should have walked from Yoshihara to Kanbara to fulfill all the course of this old trail between Hakone and Kyoto portion but I skipped this part for the following reason,
1) Most part from Yoshihara to Kanbara has turned to tarmac commercial road with full of cars. And many old buildings which make you recall good old days were demolished with only a few exceptions to reconstruct stark buildings such as pulp factories that pollute the air around.
2) Tomei-expressway and Shinkansen line cut the course on some occasions. Of course bypasses are connected but I cannot recognize them as one part of the old Tokaido.
So I decided to skip above part and begin to walk west from Kanbara.
The nearest station of Kanbara-shuku (old postal town) is "Shin-Kanbara" of JR Tokaido line, 25 minites east by local train from JR Shizuoka station.
Stepping out from the only one exit of Shin-kanbara station, you may feel disappointed with the view of the huge supermarket in front. But please do not worry. Walk through the underpass just beside the station to north, you will find yourself being in the world of 100 years (or more) ago!
Many old wooden buildings used to be warehouse, hatago (旅籠, they called a sort of simple guesthouse it during Edo era), food shop, and etc are nicely preserved in this area from Kanbara (15th postal town from Edo Nihon-bashi, Start of the old Tokaido) to 5km remote town, Yui, the 16th.
You can take precise information paper of this town for free at many places. Information is only in Japanese but adequate illustration will help you regardless of which language you understand.
In this area Kanbara, though most these old building are still used as private residence by locals, are opened for travellers for free by their favor daytime. Please do not forget to knock the door when entering and stay polite with respect while in those houses.
Former Igarashi (五十嵐) dental clinic buidling has western appearance but complete Japanese style inside. This style was booming among in wealthy categories during Taisho (大正) era (1912-1926), when the western culture was getting popular after Meiji restoration that said good-bye to 200 years of Samurai's dominance.
5km walk along the old Tokaido you will get to Yui (由比), another old oriented town.
There is "Tokaido Hiroshige Museum" (東海道広重美術館) in the ruins of Honjin (本陣, officially designated lodging by Tokugawa Shogunate in Edo era for Daimyo, the local lord only. Common people had no right to stay there) in this town. Admission fee is 500 JPY as of January 2014.
(Utagawa or Ando) Hiroshige (1797-1858) is one of the most prominent Ukiyoe (浮世絵) painter in Edo era who published famous Ukiyoe series of "Tokaido 53 postal towns (東海道五十三次)".
Each of his work, its making procedure, and examples of his Ukiyoe's influence on impressionist painters like Monet or Gogh are exhibited in this museum.
Lets continue to walk for around one hour to Satta-pass from Yui Honjin (由比本陣) through a few old towns where the width of the trail has not changed for over 300 years.
Satta pass (薩垂峠, Satta touge) is one of the highlight of the old Tokaido. I think the most popular Ukiyoe among over 50 paintings Hiroshige depicted in "Tokaido 53 postal towns" is the one of this place (You may have seen it).
This must be one of the reasons why "Tokaido Hiroshige Museum" was constructed in Yui, the nearest postal town from this pass.
FYI, Satta has the same pronunciation as "去った" (gone away, passed away).
So it is said that the bride avoided taking the Tokaido when she married into far family during Edo era.
After climbing over Satta pass, 30 more minutes walk takes you to Okitsu (興津), the 17th postal town, about 16km far west from Kanbara.
There remains less old buildings than Kanbara or Yui, but Seikenji (清見寺, Seiken-temple) is worth a visit.
This temple is very famous for the following two facts,
One; Tokugawa Ieyasu (徳川家康), the founder of Tokugawa Shogunate and Edo era had spent his childhood and been educated in this temple as a hostage.
Two; JR Tokaido line runs through the precincts of this temple. It is quite rare example that railroad was laid on the ground of temple.
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List of Posts:
2014/07/04 - Where Heda? 2014/03/24 - Walk the old Tokaido from Kakegawa to Hamamatsu 2014/03/21 - Walk the old Tokaido from Fujieda to Kanaya 2014/03/21 - Walk the old Tokaido from Kanaya to Kakegawa 2014/03/20 - Walk the old Tokaido from Shizuoka to Fujieda 2014/03/19 - Walk the old Tokaido from Okitsu to Shizuoka 2014/01/30 - Matsuzaki, an old fashioned small port town 2014/01/20 - Walk the old Tokaido from kanbara to Okitsu 2014/01/14 - Walk the old Tokaido from Mishima to Yoshihara 2013/12/16 - Walk along the old Tokaido from Hakone to Mishima |
