Walk the old Tokaido from Shizuoka to Fujieda
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March 20, 2014 - Walk the old Tokaido from Shizuoka to Fujieda
Shizuoka (静岡) city is now too developed to find something old that make you recall Edo era, when the old Tokaido was really active.
They say that old Tokaido now turns to Shin-dori (新通り) from Umeya-town(梅屋町) in the center of this capital city, but I say any street is fine. Every street looks same in terms of almost nothing survives.
I recommend you to escape the center of the city asap and reach Abekawa (安倍川) bridge.
Near the bridge there are some Dango (Japanese rice dumpling) shops still now under operation for over 100 years. Abekawa is very famous for its Dango.
After crossing over the bridge the atmosphere of the trail becomes getting better.
Mariko (丸子), the 20th postal town of the old Tokaido has yam restaurant.
As you can judge from its appearance easily, this restaurant “Cho-ji ya” (丁子屋) is astonishingly old. It is since 1597. The bestseller novel during Edo era “Tokaido chu Hizakurige” (東海道中膝栗毛) refers this restaurant. In this fictional story two easygoing men who travel this trail from Edo to Kyoto evoke or get involved in comical troubles on the way every day. This nonsense story grabbed many of general people, then both it and to travel the old Tokaido bursted into a boom.
In this story two men tried to take lunch in the Yam restaurant in Mariko, but the master of the shop and his wife started quarrel, so the men could not eat anything and escaped there to avoid to get involved into the fight.
Around 30 minutes’ walk from Mariko town along heavy traffic National route 1, you will find Utsuno-ya (宇津ノ谷) service area.
Turn to right the area and go through the narrow old street for a few minutes, you reach this quiet old town.
Having exposed myself to lots of cars and tracks just five minutes ago, then I was there suddenly. I felt like that I came here by taking a time machine. Not exaggeration.
If walking is not your interest, local bus company “Shizutetu Just line” (しずてつジャストライン) operates “Chubu Kokudo Line” (中部国道ライン) bus for Fujieda (藤枝) from JR Shizuoka station north bus terminal platform No. 6 every 30 minutes daily. Approx time from JR Shizuoka station to Utsuno-ya is 30 minutes.
From Ustuno-ya to Okabe (岡部), the next postal town, there are 4 ways to go.
1st is “ Tsuta no Hosomichi” (蔦の細道) trail from Nara era. Over 1000 years old trail. But this one skips above old town.
2nd is Meiji(明治)-tunnel. This is literally constructed in Meiji era.
3rd is Taisho (大正)- tunnel.
4th is the old Tokaido.
In terms of atmosphere, to take Meiji tunnel is the best choice.
After waking through this tunnel, unpaved old Tokaido is waiting for you.
The 21st postal town Okabe (岡部) is not far from Ustuno-ya.
This town was not so large when the old Tokaido was active, and is now still. But (or So) many period houses or temples are well preserved.
In many postal towns Honjin (本陣, please see my previous post “Walk the old Tokaido from Kanbara to Okitsu” for details) is now unfortunately dismantled but here in Okabe is one of its exception.
Survived building of Honjin in this town is now used as a museum for free.
In 8km west 22nd postal town Fujieda (藤枝), most part of the old Tokaido is now turned to an shopping arcade. It is fun on its own.
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List of Posts:
2014/07/04 - Where Heda? 2014/03/24 - Walk the old Tokaido from Kakegawa to Hamamatsu 2014/03/21 - Walk the old Tokaido from Fujieda to Kanaya 2014/03/21 - Walk the old Tokaido from Kanaya to Kakegawa 2014/03/20 - Walk the old Tokaido from Shizuoka to Fujieda 2014/03/19 - Walk the old Tokaido from Okitsu to Shizuoka 2014/01/30 - Matsuzaki, an old fashioned small port town 2014/01/20 - Walk the old Tokaido from kanbara to Okitsu 2014/01/14 - Walk the old Tokaido from Mishima to Yoshihara 2013/12/16 - Walk along the old Tokaido from Hakone to Mishima |
