Kyoto: Still Green

The temperatures in Kyoto have been far above average over the past weeks and months, discouraging trees from starting their coloring process. But even in the average year, a visit to Kyoto around this time of the year is usually too early for leaf peeping. Nevertheless, I visited the city today for an early report about the state of the season.

As expected the colors have barely started changing down in the city, where I dropped by Tofukuji and Kiyomizudera, and were still at an early state even in the surrounding mountains, where I visited Enryakuji on Mount Hieizan. In fact, you could still smell the sweet fragrance of Kinmokusei (sweet osmanthus) bushes in the city, indicating that the season is about 1-2 weeks behind it's average schedule.

Considering the state of the season and that the temperatures are forecast to remain seasonal or above-seasonal for the coming week, I don't expect any dramatic progress with the colors too soon. The peak of the season in Kyoto this year is likely going to take place in the last third of November and possibly into the first few days of December.

Protecting Kyoto from the northeastern direction, Hieizan is a roughly 800 meter high mountain, where the Buddhist Tendai sect established its headquarters over 1200 years ago. Although much smaller than in past centuries, these headquarters - known as Enryakuji Temple - are still large, with buildings scattered across the wooded mountain.

Because of the higher elevation, the colors around Hieizan are typically appearing a week or two earlier than down in the city. However, green was still the predominant color on the mountain today, and several more crisp nights will be needed for the season to progress.

Down in the city I checked out one of Kyoto's most famous autumn color spots, Tofukuji Temple, which was still very green and calm today. I expect the situation to start changing from the second half of November, when theme park-like queuing will become necessary to enter the temple grounds during most hours of the day.

I concluded today's reporting at Kiyomizudera where the number of colorful leaves were still outnumbered by the number of visitors. I expect the peak of the season to take place here in the last third of November and possibly into the early days of December, but it will depend on the temperatures of the upcoming weeks. Evening illuminations at Kiyomizudera are scheduled to be held from November 18 to 30 this year (entry until 9pm).